Roero, Italy, is a wine region that should be on your list.
At last I was indulging in one of the world’s most hedonistic (and expensive) delicacies in its place of origin. On my very first night, I was eating truffles in the subregion of Roero in Piedmont, the northern Italian region producing some of my favorite wines, particularly, the prized Nebbiolo. In the world of food and wine, truffles and Nebbiolo are just about as perfect a pairing as you can get.
Staring at those shaved, lightly curled black truffles atop a plate of spaghetti, I acted as if I had never seen truffles before. In truth I had, but not in Italy. I was at Azienda Agricola Aloi Luca, located in Montà in the province of Cuneo. That dinner was a mere prelude of what was to come during my time in Roero, Italy.
{Take a cooking class in Roero and eat Piedmontese cuisine}
Nebbiolo…Italy’s King Grape
Nebbiolo–– often deemed Italy’s king grape and only rivaled by Sangiovese––is versatile in all of its mostly medium-bodied gloriousness, however, and pairs well with numerous foods beyond truffles.
Let me be clear, I don’t need to drink Nebbiolo in its most luxurious expressions. I’m referring to Barolo and Barbaresco, two of the boot’s most coveted wines, both of which are made from 100% Nebbiolo. Rather, the grape and the wine by the same name, can be a younger, fresher iteration. And that version is what’s typical of this region. Roero Nebbiolo DOCG offers more affordable wines than Barolo and Barbaresco. And who doesn’t love a good-value and great-tasting wine?
The region also produces Arneis. I likely tasted Arneis at some point before the trip, but I fell in love with this aromatic white wine almost immediately in Roero. Arneis is entirely drinkable on its own; it’s also a lovely wine with many different dishes–– you can read about some of those pairings in this article. Indigenous to Piedmont, Roero Arneis stays under the radar as compared to other Italian varieties and doesn’t garner the recognition it deserves. So white wine drinkers: find some Arneis and uncork that bottle immediately. You’ll thank me, I promise.
Where Is Roero?
Roero sits adjacent to Monferrato and the Langhe––two other subregions––on the left bank or north of the Tanaro River. While Piedmont is not a huge region, the wines in each sub-area are largely different. They have their own identities and nuances, like in any region, depending on where the fruit grows and how the wine is crafted. Sloped vineyards––often requiring hand harvesting due to the steepness––and sandy marine, limestone, clay and marl-rich soils give these wines great character. Meanwhile the warm, sunny days and cool evenings common in Roero provide the ideal climate for growing and ripening Nebbiolo and Arneis.
On this trip, I immersed myself in these wines, the gastronomy and the culture of this fertile, often unsung subregion of Piedmont. I left with a greater appreciation and understanding of the depth, diversity, and beauty of Roero.
{Book your hotel in Piedmont early}
Where to Stay in Roero
Hotel Castello di Santa Vittoria is an alluring property in a stellar location in the village of Santa Vittoria d’Alba in Roero. The pristine estate features 38 accommodations, a pool, golf course, and its namesake restaurant, a table-clothed spot plating Piedmontese cuisine. I dined here my last night in Roero, indulging in uovo morbido, patate, crema di Parmigiano and asparagus risotto. I stayed in this hotel while I was in Roero and I recommend it.
{Book Hotel Castello di Santa Vittoria here}
Marchesi Alfieri lies at the nexus of Roero, the Langhe and Monferrato in San Martino Alfieri, so this hotel is also in an ideal place for exploring Roero and the rest of Piedmont. Set in a circa 1696 Baroque castle, this hotel allows you to truly appreciate the bucolic setting of Roero and the surrounding Piedmont region. This stunning estate places you not only in the heart of Piedmont, but you’ll be staying on a wine property ensconced by vineyards. I recommend the tour and tasting during your stay. I enjoyed sampling the wines and learning about the history of the Alfieri family, who still live in the castle.
Four-star Villa Tiboldi in Canale sits among sloped vineyards with Piedmont’s undulating landscape on view. Suites here reveal panoramic vistas of the Roero hills. Providing only 10 rooms, this wine resort also houses a spacious upscale restaurant, which can comfortably host groups. Sleep among the vines, relax by the pool or take a dip after tasting wine. While I did not stay at this property, I did visit and I ate dinner in the restaurant (more below).
Families Making Wine in Roero
Wine is life and life is wine in Roero. I was reminded of that as I traveled by bus, observing a hilly, vine-covered landscape as the backdrop. Many producers in Piedmont are boutique and family-owned and operated. So that’s the case in Roero. Thus, you can expect mostly intimate wine-tasting experiences when you visit vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms.
At the women-owned winery Tibaldi in the village of Pocapaglia, sisters Monica and Daniela partner up to organically farm their fruit, producing Roero DOCG Arneis, Barbera d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo, and the fresh-tasting Roccopalea, made from 100% Nebbiolo. This boutique winery was my first stop on the trip. I found it inviting and an excellent introduction to Arneis and Nebbiolo in Roero. If you like a laid-back vibe when tasting wine, you’ll love Tibaldi.
An a.m. tasting? Yes, and the place to do it is Azienda Agricola Morra Stefanino in Castellinaldo d’ Alba. Stefanino Morra and his family manage the winemaking operations in this winery that dates to the 1920s. Morra produces Nebbiolo, Barbera d’Alba, and Arneis, as well as Favorita, a rare native grape variety in the region. I paired my wine with bread sticks and deli meats, an unconventional yet delicious breakfast as the sun streamed into the tasting room. It was a perfect morning.
A Passion for Boutique Winemaking in Roero
Gabrielle Cordero grew up in a winemaking family, so one could say that the juice runs through his veins. At his namesake winery in Priocca, he and his sister Serena produce exceptional Nebbiolo, Arneis and Barbera, as well as Riesling and the similar native Timorasso. Cordero’s Langhe Fuschia (a local dialect word for “little fog”) is a Nebbiolo DOC with a delightful expression of floral, strawberries and cherries. Although the neighboring “Langhe” is on the label, this wine reflects Roero’s approachable style.
Stefano Occhetti makes wine in small batches at home in his garage, but the wines he produces are complex and big on taste. Occhetti’s operation is built on innovation, his wine labels tell his story as an engineer-turned-winemaker who released his first Nebbiolo in 2020. A Roero native, he produces a variety of Nebbiolos, including a Roero Riserva DOC, as well as Barbera, Arneis and a sparkling Nebbiolo. He exports some to the US. In fact, I recently came across one of his Nebbiolos at a restaurant in New York City.
Larger Facilities but Still Family-Owned
I recommend Cascina Chicco in Canale for a high-end wine experience. This winery presents an extensive portfolio, ranging from Arneis to Nebbiolo to Barbaresco to sparkling wines. The 100% Nebbiolo sparkling is a lovely expression of the grape, crafted using the traditional method (Metodo Classico, or the same process as Champagne) and vinified as a white. Cascina Chicco’s tasting felt more formal than others, so this winery provides an alternative experience to the wineries that have a more relaxed atmosphere.
Malabaila de Canale dates to the 14th century and the property assumes that Old World feel. Biodiversity is a theme in Malabaila’s winemaking process. Their goal is to protect the land and environment, omitting herbicides and fertilizing naturally. This vintner produces red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines, ranging from Roero Arneis and Langhe Favorita to Nebbiolo spumante rosé to Barbera and Roero Nebbiolo. The property is stunning inside and out. I recommend booking a tour and tasting. The winery offers vineyard hikes as well.
Book a tour and tasting a Malabaila de Canale
There is no arguing the natural beauty of Roero and one of the region’s most alluring properties is Villa Tiboldi (also a hotel mentioned above), especially after dark. My dinner at Villa Tiboldi consisted of elegant plates of vitello tonnato and agnolotti del plin paired with wines from Malvira, the winery on the property. That evening was the culinary highlight of my time in Roero.
Roero, Italy’s Culinary Culture
Food follows wine and that’s particularly evident in Roero. The Slow Food Movement was established in the town of Bra in 1986, and the headquarters is still there. This fertile region proves the theory “What grows together goes together” is true.
In the tiny town of Govone, Castello Reale di Govone is a Baroque fortress dating to the 11th century. I toured the interior of the castle, and then soaked in the 360-degree views of Govone and neighboring towns. The castle also offers sweeping views of the bell and clock tower (campanile) of the Church of San Secondo. But it should come as no surprise, the highlight of my time at the castle was lunch at Le Scuderie del Castello di Govone. This sophisticated contemporary restaurant serves upscale Italian dishes such as risotto with prawns, tortelli, and rabbit with hazelnuts. The menu changes with the seasons.
Bees, Honey, Pears, Goats and Cheese
At Mieli Roche, a bee farm in Vezza d’Alba, I witnessed honey making and tasted the most delicious honey. Beyond its reputation as a renowned wine region, Roero is devoted to beekeeping. And thus, honey production is customary. The honeys from Mielie Roche are far more than medicinal. These honeys are artisanal, gourmet, and elevate many foods. And the acidity of Nebbiolo cuts through honey’s sweetness, so the two together make a delectable pairing.
At Azienda Agricola Juppi in Guarene, you’ll find crops of fruit growing, including the Madernassa pear. This tart cooking pear is native to the region. Before visiting this farm, I had never eaten pear in so many delicious ways. Sweetened pear, savory pear, pear in a salad, pear with gorgonzola and nuts on a cracker, caramelized pear with polenta, and more. After visiting Azienda Agricola Juppi, I developed a new appreciate for pears and the myriad ways this fruit can elevate dishes. And pears are quite tasty with both Arneis and Nebbiolo, so that’s a bonus.
I don’t eat goat cheese–-I actually have a complete aversion to it. But in Roero, the goat cheese tasted like no goat cheese I’ve eaten before. At Azienda Agricola Fratelli Pertusio, I walked with the shepherd and goats before tasting robiola, and you guessed it…goat cheese. This goat cheese had an earthy, grassy flavor, not the usual pungency on the palate that I’ve experienced in the past. Perhaps that mild deliciousness proves that happy, stress-free animals taste better, whether that be meat, eggs, milk or cheese. And to eat fresh raw cheese paired with organic Valdovato Nebbiolo, well that was perfection!
For more on Roero as a wine region, visit the consortium website.
Also, what to eat with Roero Arneis. And another wine region in Northern Italy.
Plus, I adore Oregon wine.
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