Oregon’s Umpqua Valley Is Ripe for Wine-Loving Travelers

The hidden Umpqua Valley wine region is home to a diverse selection of wines, from Gruner Veltliner to Tempranillo and Pinot Noir.

Truth be told, I had never heard of the Umpqua Valley wine region, even after a week-long trip to Oregon in 2018. I tasted plenty of wine on that first trip. I fell in love with the state and the wine, but I didn’t give any other Oregon wine regions a thought. In fact, I didn’t realize that Oregon’s viticulture extends to the southern tip of the state. That is until I ventured on an 8-day road trip and drove from north to south in 2023. It was then that I experienced the breadth of Oregon wine. I also experienced the state’s rugged, breathtakingly beautiful landscape on the drive.

I navigated solo, driving from Portland to the Willamette Valley, south to Corvallis and Eugene, before heading to Southern Oregon. It was a spectacular trip, albeit a rainy one. But of the three regions in Oregon––the Willamette Valley, Umpqua Valley and Rogue Valley–– it was the Umpqua Valley wine region that enchanted me the most during that week-plus journey.

An Oregon Winery Gem in a Tiny Town

The town of Elkton was my first stop. This tiny enclave feels more like a village than a proper town, but it’s worth a visit to spend an afternoon tasting wines at Brandborg Vineyard & Winery. Partners in business and in life, Terry and Sue Brandborg are self-taught winemakers crafting Alsace-inspired whites and Pinot Noir. The couple hunted for property and settled on the plot in Ekton, which lies just 36 miles from the Oregon coast.

Brandborg makes lovely, drinkable wines and I tried many during my time there. I recommend the white Pinot Noir, a complete surprise. Other than Champagne, this was my first taste of a white wine made from Pinot, proving another reason why this grape is one of my favorites. Also of note, Wine Enthusiast scored the 2021 vintage 91 points. You can’t go wrong with any of the Pinot Noirs––and Brandborg makes several––but try the Northern Reach Pinot Noir. The fruit hails from three dry-farmed vineyards in the northern Umpqua Valley. Expect cherry, raspberry, a bit of oak and a weightiness in the mouthfeel.

With its intimate vibe, Brandborg Vineyard & Winery was laid-back and welcoming. Perhaps my favorite part of that visit was talking with Terry and hearing his stories about Umpqua Valley wine. I felt as if I was tasting with an old friend that afternoon. Brandborg Vineyard & Winery is super casual and you don’t need a reservation for wine tasting, but you might want to call ahead. They’re open Wednesday through Sunday.

Award-Winning Gruner Veltliner in the Umpqua Valley

For a food and wine experience, I recommend Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards just outside Roseburg, the Umpqua Valley’s hub. Former East Coasters Stephen and Gloria Reustle left Philadelphia for Oregon. They came across an ad for what would become their property and dream vineyard. The couple helms the winemaking and operations at their 200-acre estate where they grow and produce 15 varietals, including Syrah, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Gruner Veltliner, the wine that may very well be the winery’s claim to fame. Stephen became the first US winemaker to commercially produce Gruner Veltliner in 2005, and has since gone on to win numerous accolades for this wine.

Reustle-Prayer Rock’s wine cave is the setting for the property’s food and wine experiences. Choose from a Signature Tasting offering four wines and artisan cheese pairings, a Reserve Tasting accompanied by appetizer pairings, and the Heirloom Tasting, consisting of specialty and library wines alongside a charcuterie board. The wine cave will take you to the other side of the world because you’ll likely imagine that you’re in the wine cellars of Europe. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon. You can book a tasting through the website.

Merging the Old World with the New World in the Umpqua Valley Wine Region

Oregon’s oldest estate winery and the birthplace of Pinot Noir, Hillcrest Winery employs Old World techniques in winemaking. Hillcrest was founded by Richard Sommer, a pioneer in Oregon wine, who planted the state’s first Pinot Noir in the Umpqua Valley in 1961. Today, the DeMara family owns the winery. Dyson DeMara is the vintner and his wife Susan also helps with production. With Dyson’s experience making wine in Napa Valley as well as Germany’s Mosel Valley, Priorato, Spain, Roussillon, France, Sicily, Italy and Burgenland, Austria, it’s obvious where the Old World influence comes from.

Hillcrest reminded me of properties I’ve visited in Europe. From the rustic environment, both inside and out to the nature of the wines. I tasted Dyson’s European wines side by side with his Oregon wines, and I was amazed at the similarities and how the New World wines captured the Old World’s nuances. I enjoyed every wine here, but the Reserve Pinot Noir and the Tempranillos were standouts.

Dyson is incredibly passionate about wine. He’ll likely devote quite a bit of time to chatting if you allow him. I love talking wine with people who know more than me and I try to soak up as much of their knowledge as possible (not always an easy task when tasting wine all day!). That said, I enjoyed every minute of my time at Hillcrest Winery. The tasting room is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.  daily.

A Tempranillo Pioneer in the Umpqua Valley

As someone who adores Tempranillo, especially from Rioja, Spain, I should’ve known that Abacela––a Spanish word translating to “they plant the vine” in English–would strike all the right notes for me.

The winery was founded in 1995 by Earl and Hilda Jones, who pioneered Tempranillo in the Umpqua Valley. No one was growing Tempranillo at that time. But after they began research in 1989, including trips to Spain’s Rioja and Ribera, the Joneses discovered that the climate of the Umpqua Valley was very similar to the climate in those two lauded regions that have been producing Tempranillos for hundreds of years.  And so the quest began with 252 cuttings from California vines that they planted the year they established the winery. And as they say, the rest is history.

While Tempranillo may be the grape that Abacela is known for and does exceptionally well, the winery produces Grenache, Merlot, Tannat, and Malbec, among other reds, as well as Viognier and Albariño in whites. Not to take away from the whites because they’re very good, but the reds are really the stars here.

After a comprehensive session exploring the wines in Abacela’s tasting room, I toured the property. It’s a large parcel outside Roseburg, with a range of elevation and sweeping vineyard views. That day was one of the few sunny ones I had in wine country. What a pleasure it was to walk in the vineyards without any rain. Abacela provides daily tastings from 11 a.m. Make a reservation through the website.

More Umpqua Valley Wine to Discover

There’s much more to Umpqua Valley wine. I couldn’t get to all of the wineries in the short time I was in the region. The one producer I wish I could’ve visited was Meadows Estate, but I ran out of time. One of the few Black-owned wineries in Oregon, Meadows Estate  produces Rhone and Bordeaux-style wines. I’ve heard great things about this producer and I hope to experience their wines and tasting room when I return to Oregon one day.

If you plan to visit multiple wineries in a day, I recommend hiring a driver. I didn’t drive during most of of wine tasting ventures, however I had an excellent escort. I recommend Tracy Hurst of Winehopper Tours and Bravo Outings for your Umpqua Valley wine experience.

There’s so much more to know about Oregon’s Umpqua Valley wine.

Thanks to the folks at Travel Oregon and their partners for organizing and hosting my trip.

After all of this wine talk, you might be craving a glass. Here’s a luscious rosé.

And while in Oregon, don’t miss Portland. It’s a wonderfully weird city. I loved my time there!

Plus, a fabulous European city.