Belltown Is Seattle’s Cool, Cultured District
In a city renowned for birthing iconic bands such as Alice in Chains, Pearl Jam, and Soundgarden, Belltown is the Seattle neighborhood with deep ties to the grunge movement. This dark, edgy subculture emerged in Seattle in the late 1980s and early 1990s, leaving a lasting imprint on a neighborhood that’s evolved into a trendy place to live and visit.
Once the creative cradle of “Seattle sound,” this district minutes from the downtown core has morphed into a pricey enclave. High-rise apartment buildings soar alongside decades-old, low-rise storefronts housing record stores, nightclubs and music venues. These remnants from the grunge days accompany trendy restaurants, bakeries and bars. The result is a diverse mix in a storied neighborhood.
As a base in Seattle, Belltown’s location is stellar. It’s close to Seattle’s waterfront, Pike Place Market and Seattle Center. If you plan to visit the Emerald City, try to spend at least a day or two in this area of town. There’s so much to discover.
If I’ve piqued your interest, here’s what to see and do in Belltown, Seattle’s cool, cultured district.
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Where to Stay in Belltown
Hotel Andra is in a restored 1920s structure in the southern section of Belltown. Close to downtown sites, attractions and eateries, this hotel offers three culinary outlets: Tom Douglas’s Lola, Mauro Golmarvi’s Assagio, and the “Hot Stove Society,” a year-round cooking school. You’ll notice a calming, Scandinavian aesthetic showcasing modern furnishings and Nordic details. With its soothing colors, quiet rooms, and hospitable staff, Hotel Andra is a top pick if you want to stay in Belltown.
Ace Hotel exudes the Belltown of days gone by. This Ace was the original, opened in 1999. Now it’s one of eight Ace properties in the US and abroad. Expect “unfussy luxury” and quiet chicness that reflects the Pacific Northwest. Geared to artistic types, the hyper-local boutique property features standard rooms with shared bathrooms and deluxe accommodations with private baths. All rooms have original art, vintage furnishings, and bath products from Rudy’s Barbershop, the hair salon opened in 1993 by the hotel’s founding trio.
Olympic Sculpture Park
If you’re into art and the outdoors, the don’t miss Olympic Sculpture Park. Seattle’s awarded downtown green space occupies former industrial land along the waterfront. The park exhibits impressive works, including Alexander Calder’s orange-red piece called “The Eagle” and Louise Bourgeois’ stunning Father & Son fountain. Explore this sculpture park that connects to Myrtle Edwards Park on a clear day. You can revel in views of the Olympic Mountains, Mt. Rainier, and Puget Sound in the distance. Stunning!
Tilikum Place
Tilikum means “welcome or “greetings” in Chinook. This tiny square on Bell Town’s northwestern edge houses a statue of Chief Seattle extending one arm to greet the first white settlers who arrived at Alki Point in West Seattle in 1851. Beyond its historical significance, this tiny plaza is a convenient spot between Belltown and Seattle Center. Plus, you’ll find several casual eateries for a beverage or a quick bite.
One I recommend is 5 Point Café. This divey eatery with a diner vibe survived tough times over the last almost century from Prohibition to World War II to changing owners. Despite the irreverent service, as the website states, there’s something incredibly charming about this 24-hour spot cooking up a phonebook of diner favorites. A heaping plate of over-easy eggs, sausage and hash browns is easily enough for two, and the chicken fried steak, drowned in country sausage gravy, must be one of the city’s largest portions. You can imbibe here, too. The Five Point Special is a shot of well whiskey and a can of beer for $6, available Sunday to Thursday from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Belltown’s Music
Music has played a leading role in Seattle’s cultural scene for decades. While that scene has changed over the years, some Belltown cribs where the grunge icons played continue to rock on.
Opened in 1991, the Crocodile was instrumental in the success of Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Mudhoney, among others. Though the venue moved from its original address, it still jams, stating that it’s “been the soundtrack of Belltown” due to the all of the musicians that have played there over the years. While the Crocodile was once a modest spot, today it’s three-story complex that includes a restaurant and a boutique hotel.
Opened in 1927 as Seattle’s Film Row, The Rendezvous Jewelbox Theater hosted its share of grunge gods during their heyday. The performing arts venue now features comedy shows, late-night burlesque, poetry readings and more. Meanwhile, for Pearl Jam fans, trace the band’s footsteps and music at The Showbox, where the Seattle group recorded its DVD “Live at The Showbox” in December 2002.
Tom Douglas’s empire in Belltown
Palace Kitchen, from celebrated Seattle chef Tom Douglas, opened in 1996. This American restaurant features an expansive horseshoe-shaped bar and deep booths for drinking and dining. Savor some of Douglas’s signature dishes, many of which are prepared on a wood-fired grill. I recommend the whole trout with Yukon gold mashed potatoes and vegetables. For meat lovers, the Palace Burger Royale topped with Beecher’s cheddar and plopped on a potato bun is a fan favorite.
Also one of Douglas’s empire, Dahlia Bakery , churns out delicious sweet and savory fare ranging from artisan breads, breakfast sandwiches and salads, to cookies, gluten-free OH mochi doughnuts, and the “world-famous” and entirely irresistible coconut cream pie. In the same space, Serious Pie is pizzeria that uses a 600-degree stone-encased applewood-burning oven to perfectly bake clam, oyster mushroom, and fennel sausage pizzas. Fabulous.
More to eat and drink in Belltown
Technically part of Pike Place Market but on the northern edge of Belltown, Wines of Washington Tasting Room is an essential stop for oenophiles. Knowledgeable staff pour tastes and glasses of Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Franc. This quaint wine bar is run by several local wineries, and as the name implies, the wine bar is an excellent spot to experience the state’s wines.
Since cocktail bars dot the streets of Belltown, you’ll likely find yourself stumbling upon more than one. Make it a crawl or settle in for an evening of Prohibition-style libations at Bathtub Gin. This multi-level drinking den in a former hotel’s basement shelves an extensive gin selection and and international spirits collection.
Calling all carb lovers. The pasta-centric menu at Tavolata suggests dishes like the cacio e pepe tonnarelli and pappardelle ragu, uniquely flavored with mint and orange. The wine selection is impressive with more than a dozen by the glass, primarily from Italy and the Pacific Northwest. Daily from 4 to 6 p.m., happy hour here is worth rearranging your itinerary. Pull up a stool or chair for the bargain appetizers and pastas (all less than $20). Pair with happy hour wines for $9 and cocktails like the Italian Old Fashioned ($13). Cheers!
Also Portland, Oregon, a city I love. Plus Eugene, a town with an excellent culinary scene.
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